Sweet Willie

Flew into Kansai (KIX) on Thai Airways, arrived into KIX at 6:40pm. Having been a longtime United FF, I was VERY pleased w/the service and cleanliness aboard the Thai 747 aircraft, the washrooms alone were wiped down by the FA's at least 10 times. I have never seen a United FA wipe down a washroom, let alone even look in one on an international flight.

Customs and getting our bags was a breeze. There were plenty of signs at KIX to direct us to where we wanted to go in the airport. There are atm's for Japan Yen if needed. Followed the signs to the KIX rail station.

We redeemed our JR Railpass vouchers at the JR office of the KIX rail station. For those not aware of the JR Railpass, it is a 7, 14, 21 day pass that allows unlimited riding on all
JR Shinkansen (Bullet Train (except Nozumi)), and JR rail lines. It also allowed us free travel on a ferry run by JR, but more on that later. The pass much be purchased outside of Japan before your trip. In return you will receive a voucher that is good for 90 days from date of purchase. Once in Japan, you redeem you voucher for the actual rail pass, deciding when to start your 7, 14 etc. pass. You can not make reservations before you have your rail pass. We were travelling during the summer (busy) season, so we spent more to upgrade to the Green (first class) rail pass, but I would believe that if you were travelling during non-busy times a regular pass would do fine. For our Shinkansen trips, we arrived at the stations no more than 20 minutes before the train left and were always able to get on the train we wanted. Be sure to request Non-smoking if that matters to you. It was very easy to make reservations at the rail stations. I had a copy of the train schedule that I picked up at the JNTO (Japan National Tourist Organization) office in Chicago. I would hand the rail passes to the attendant, say where I wanted to go, and point to the time/train on the schedule when I wanted to leave. Your ticket will state which car you sit in and your seat assignments.

From KIX we took the local JR line into Osaka. We got off at the Osaka station (not Shin-Osaka!) stop, which was right across from our hotel for that night, the Osaka Hilton. Trip took about 50 minutes. Walked w/our luggage to the hotel (about two blocks), you can see the hotel from the station. It was nice, as we were arriving at our hotel at 9:30pm, very tired and ready to sleep after the flight. Our first insight into the incredible hospitality was when we entered the lobby of the Hilton. A bellman actually ran from across the lobby (large lobby) to take our luggage. In a decade of travelling, I have never seen a bellman run for anything. For those that are interested in a further discussion of the Hilton Osaka, I posted a thread in the Hilton section of FT.

In the morning we took the Shinkansen from the Shin-Osaka station bound for Hiroshima. Arrived in Hiroshima about 11:00am. Checked into the ANA hotel. Was not impressed w/the ANA and even not having been to other hotels in Hiroshima would recommend to stay somewhere else. The only bright point to the ANA is it is near Peace Memorial Park.

We took the local JR train line out of Hiroshima for Miyajima Island. The JR line does not actually stop at Miyajima as it is an island, but stops at the Miyajimaguchi station. This station is a three block walk from a ferry, which you can use your JR rail pass on, to get to Miyajima Island, which is about 1.5 miles off the mainland in the Seto Inland Sea.
In olden times, Miyajima was so sacred that no one could die or be born on the island.
The main attraction on the island is the Itsukushima Shrine which was founded in 592.
You probably have seen the the red torii from this Shrine, it is the one that appears to be floating (as the whole shrine does) when it is high tide. It was high tide when we were there and the whole shrine was beautiful.

We had a very serendipitous moment, just after we had paid our 300Y to tour the shrine, a Japanese man dressed in white pants, shirt and holding a straw hat approached us. He asked if we spoke English and we responded yes. He asked us if we knew about the shrine and if not could he practice his English on us as he explained the shrine. We said yes immediately, but the red flag went up in my mind (what is his angle? I'm sure he will ask us for $ when he is through). I then thought that the Japanese would never do anything to shame us or themselves as to ask for $, so we went with it. We got so much more out of our trip to the shrine w/him as our guide. There are no signs in English explaining what things are. Some of the highlights of his tour: 8 and 108 are "lucky" numbers in Japanese culture. The shrine has 8 floor boards between each support, it also has 8 turns in it. The distance from the large lantern by the "alter" area to the floating Torii is 108 canes (a old Japanese length of measurement, approx 1.6 meters), from the end of the shrine to the Torii it is 88 canes. You are actually not walking on the shrine, boards have been placed on top of the walkway, so that you do not desecrate the shrine.
Look at the two lion like statues that guard the shrine, they actually have sex organs, something that on most statues is not present. (a funny side note, he would not point this feature of the statues out to my wife, just me). He taught us how to pray at the shrine (a ritual we then used at other shrines). First, look for a small fountain w/water pouring into a trough. There will be ladles there. Pour water of each hand to cleanse. Approach the shrine, there is usually a slotted wooden trough in front of the shrine. Clap twice to get your Deity's attention, bow twice, throw some $ into the wooden trough. State your prayer/wish (either private or aloud) and then bow once and leave. At some other shrines we noticed that some people after pouring the water over their hands, lifted the ladle up so that water would run down the handle to cleanse the handle of the ladle. Our guide had asked us to correct his English as we went along. On a humorous note, he mentioned that the symbol for Miyajima was the udon spoon. I asked him to repeat the statement, he said ooden. I realized he was trying to say "wooden". Picture me saying "woo woo wooden" and him saying right back "oo oo ooden" Finally he got a little upset and said, "yes the ooden spoon! Made of ood!" So my wife and I quietly laughed to ourselves and said, "now you've got it!" At the end of the tour we asked why he was practicing his English. He mentioned he is the only doctor on Miyajima and that his three sons are in the Tokyo Medical School studying to become doctors. One son wants to finish his studies in England, and our guide wants to be able to communicate when he goes to the UK. He had a patient he had to see and bid us farewell. One of the most beautiful views on the island is from Mt. Misen. One can walk (1.75 hours up) or take the cable car. BEAUTIFUL sights of the Inland Sea and the oyster rafts
floating in the bays. We then saw our friend/guide walking on the same street we were on. He waved to us and asked if we wanted to see the world's largest ooden: spoon. Of course we said and we were off. He was racing ahead saying he had an appointment in 30 minutes so "let's hurry, hurry". The largest wooden spoon is large! He also guided us to a beautiful creek where he sometimes meditates and also the serpent tree (a 40' long, 10' tall pine tree that has been shaped in to a serpent). By now walking and hurry hurry in 94 degree heat and 78% humidity was taking its toll on me and my sinus infection. We took the ferry, then train back to Hiroshima. It was 7pm by the time we got back. We both were so tired we went to sleep until 8am the next morning.

Had our buffet breakfast in the hotel and proceeded to walk to Peace Memorial Park. It was a sunny day, during the late AM rush hour. Cars, bikes, motorcycles, people everywhere, birds chirping, and locusts calling. We get to the Motoyasu River and took a right to go North. THEN THERE IT IS, the A-Bomb dome! Very moving and the thought that less than 60 years ago everything in this area was vaporized in a fireball when the first atomic bomb was dropped. Of Hiroshima's 350,000 residents, almost half of them lost their lives.

We then toured Peace Memorial Park. In the park is the A-Bomb Memorial Mound, where ashes to 70,000 unidentified people are buried. There is also the statue of the A-Bomb Children. This statue is based on a true story of a young girl named . She believed that if she could fold 1,000 paper cranes that she would become well again and not suffer the effects of radiation. She folded over 1,300 and still died. Today, around this memorial and others in the park are tens of thousands of paper crane chains.

There is also the Centograph for Korean Victims of the blast. Approximately 20,000 Koreans were killed also in the blast. They were brought to Japan as forced laborers.
For 29 years, the monument was outside the park, when finally in 1999 it was moved to Peace Memorial Park. For those not aware, unlike Germany, Japan has not apologized or taken responsibility for their actions/atrocities in WWII. While in Japan, every day we read stories in the papers on how countries who suffered at the hands of the Japanese (Korea, China, Singapore, Malaysia and others) are upset at Japan's very whitewashed version of WWII that is portrayed in school textbooks. Also, the prime minister of Japan was thinking of visiting a shrine where know war criminals are buried, on the anniversary of Japan's surrender in WWII. To most of the Asian countries, this is perceived as Japan pouring salt in the wound.

The museums at Peace Memorial Park should not be missed. One portrays why Hiroshima was targeted and has the actual footage of the bomb blast.

While there are other sights to see in Hiroshima, such as Hiroshima Castle, we decided to take the Shinkansen to Tokyo. We arrived about 3:30 pm and checked into the Tokyo Hilton (again for those Hilton Hounds, I posted a review in the FT Hilton).

Our first night in Tokyo was spent just walking around the huge department stores. We ate at a noodle shop in one of the stores for very cheap ($8 per person). There is also a small electronics shop area that was vibrant at night w/all the neon. Being sick still, sleep was on our minds as we made our way back to the hotel.

Most restaurants do not have English menus, but many have displays of the food they serve in the window. Just go into the restaurant, come back out w/your waiter and point to what you want. While helpful to us, I found all the displays kind of ironic when Japanese patrons would look at them and comment. To clarify, I as most people in the U.S., have a very good picture in my head of what a hamburger, roast chicken, spaghetti, or any other typical meal will look like. Yet the Japanese would point and comment on the dishes displayed, even though every display at every restaurant looks like the same person put it together. If you're Japanese do you really need to see what a soba noodle dish looks like?!?!?! I personally found it funny.

The next few days were spent walking and viewing attractions in Tokyo. A few are listed below. The subway system is extremely easy to use. In every station there are boards that list how much it is to most of the station on the subway system. One simply puts in the amount of yen, presses the correct yen amount for the ticket and out it pops! If for some reason, you did not buy a high enough price ticket, you will know it when you try to exit at your destination station as your ticket is your way through the gates. The gates will not open and reject your ticket. You then have to explain where you came from and pay the difference in the ticket.

Started one day at the Hama Rikyu Garden (opens 9am). From there we caught a ferry on the Sumida river to Asakusa and the Sensoji Temple.

Started another day at the Meijei Jingu Shrine which was opened in 1920 in honor of Emperor and Empress Meiji who helped open up Japan to the world, in Yoyogi Park. While we were there, a Shinto wedding was going on. The whole wedding was dressed in traditional Shinto garb. VERY NEAT.

Then walked through the areas of Harajuku (the young and hip) and Aoyama (when the young and hip go after they make some $$). Also walked through Ueno Park and the Yanaka area, which had some very neat cemeteries and craft shops.

From Shinjuku Station we took the Odakyu local train to Odawara station. Then it was onto the Hokone Tozan Railway which is an electric two car train that takes a series of switchbacks on its way towards the Hakone/Mt. Fuji area. At the end of the line you catch a cable car that goes up the steep incline. At the end of this line you take a gondola to Lake Ashinoko, while on the gondola you pass over a section of the mountain that has large fissures with solfurous steam escaping from the volcanic activity below (sorry, no lava, just steam). At the end of the gondola, you catch the boat that takes you down the length of Lake Ashi. The ships are replicas of Man-of-War ships,cheesy I thought to be here, but being on the water was very refreshing. Then one takes the bus back to Odawara. We took the Shinkansen back due to the Odakyu express taking a long time in our opinion. By the way, due to it being late summer, the clouds shrouded Mt. Fuji completely and we did not see it. Nice trip, but were disappointed that we did not see it.

Awoke 5:30 am and took the subway to Tsukiji station. Followed the men in rubber boots into the Tsukiji fish market, one of the largest in the world. The lift drivers are flying around and they will not stop if you get in the way (got my shorts ripped by the teeth of one of the tunas as it whizzed by on the back of a cart.) There are frozen tuna everywhere. We were lucky and caught an auction going on. The scene was very neat with a low fog enshrouding the tunas while the auctioneer belted out his auction.
If you keep walking into the back, you will see endless stalls with endless variety of live seafood in them eels, scallops, shrimp and many I could not even guess what they were.

Our stay in Tokyo ended and we caught the Shinkansen for Osaka and the Osaka Hilton.
Just another reminder, the Shinkansen stops at the Shin-Osaka station which is not next to the Osaka Hilton, so we took a cab from shin-Osaka to the Hilton. Arrived around 8pm.
Next to the Osaka Hilton is the Hilton Plaza building. On the B2 level is an Okonomiyaki restaurant called, Okonomiyaki Madonna. Okonomiyaki I would call a Japanese version of Chicago stuffed pizza without the sauce or cheese. It is a batter stuffed whatever you request, like shrimp, pork, bacon, shredded cabbage and vegetables. It is topped w/a Hoisin like sauce. Most Okonomiyaki restaurants also serve Yakisoba which is fried Chinese noodles and cabbage (as well as anything you want such as fish, shrimp, pork).
VERY GOOD!!!

Next day caught a local train from Osaka station and headed to Kyoto.

In Kyoto saw many temples including Kinkakuji (Golden Temple) the upper "floors" of the temple are covered in gold leaf, truly striking. The original temple was burned down by a disgruntled monk (obviously did not get the inner peace thing ) in 1959.
Kiyomizu Temple sits on the side of Mt. Otowa and has beautiful views. The walk up to this temple is quite a hike. Because it was so hot, we caught a cab as far as we could up the mountain. At the Jishu shrine on the Kiyomizu grounds are two "Love" stones which are about 25 feet apart from one another. Story goes if you can walk from one stone to the other w/your eyes closed, your true love desires will be granted.

Our two highlights (as if the other attractions were mediocre!) in Kyoto were Sanjusangendo Hall and cormorant fishing on the Oi river. Sanjusangendo Hall contains 1000 life size, for Japan at least statues of the thousand handed Kanon which are displayed in a 400' wooden long hall. 500 are on each side of a 19' large Kanon. While we were there, some Buddhist monks were chanting and incense filled the air. Wow! Was it cool!! By the way, each statue does not have actually 1,000 hands, they only have 40 but each hand can save 25 worlds!
At dusk/night we also viewed cormorant fishing from our personally guided wooden boat (decked out w/candle lit lanterns), on the Oi river. To get to the Oi river from Kyoto station, either take the JR Sagano Line (you can use your railpass) and get off at the Saga Arishiyama station or take the Keifuku Railway to Arashiyama Station. From both walk to the river (it's pretty evident which way) and the bridge that crosses it, the Togetsu Bridge. On either side of the river will be boats lined up that will take you to see the fishing. A tip, most people get onboard the first boats they see (the side of the river closest to the stations), we walked across the river and had a boat all to ourselves which was VERY nice! When darkness falls the fishing boats light a fire in an iron basket which is hung at the front of the boat over the water. The light attracts the fish. The cormorants are on lines that the man tending them reels in when the birds come up w/ a fish. Two other men paddle the boat. It wouldn't be Japan if they did not try to sell you something, so after the show a boat comes by selling everything from trinkets and fireworks to noodles/soup. After the sales ship leaves the boats are left to drift into a log wall at the top of a 5' waterfall and by the moonlight you watch the black water flow under your boat and over the waterfall. VERY COOL. Finally it was time to get back to shore and our boatman poled the boat back to shore. We proceeded to take the train back to Kyoto station. Kyoto station at night is a beautiful sight. The ceiling is 50' above you and little lights twinkle on the ceiling making it look like stars. We then caught the Shinkansen back to Osaka for the night.

Seeing as it was our last night I had lots of energy and wanted to experience a Pachinko Parlor. My wife was pooped and promptly fell into bed, while I went on the prowl for a Pachinko Parlor. Did not have to "prowl" far as there is one across the street from the Osaka Hilton. I sat and watched the rows of Japanese playing pachinko, most smoking very heavily. Finally I sat down at a machine and put in 500 yen. Pachinko is kind of like an upright pinball game, except you do not control the balls at all, you just shoot them into the machine and watch them fall into various contraptions and gizmos. Most players I observed would just turn the handle which then shoots constant balls into the machine. I thought I would try the touch method and shoot just one ball at a time (I swear I felt the eyes rolling of the parlor personnel that were watching me!). I soon turned into the shoot many balls at once type player. After shooting about ½ my balls into the machine, it started to make all kinds of crazy noises and all these lights were flashing on it as well.
More and more balls started pouring out of the machine, the people around me had stopped playing and were watching me. A parlor attendant gave me a plastic tray and motioned for me to start emptying my excess balls into this bin. Mind you, I've got one hand still shooting balls into the machine and the other is grabbing as many as possible and placing in my bin. Finally after what seemed like 30 minutes (I knew it was probably 3) my machine was not going crazy, yet I was still shooting balls into it. The attendant motioned for me to stop, so I did. He then waved me over to him, he then took the bin and emptied it into a counter. I was then given a card that I assumed had the number of balls I had won on it. Great I thought, now what? This is the great thing about Japan, if you stand around looking lost/stupid, they will stop to help you. Sure enough another attendant waved towards the back of the parlor. There were all kinds of prizes, everything from stereos, to chips/drinks. I give my card to the person behind the counter and she gives me 9 large metal bars and 1 small one, which are in clear hard plastic cases and in turn shrink wrapped. So again, Great I think, now what? As I'm looking at these bars, I was about to open one, when the doorman whistled to me and waved me over. He then took me outside and around the side of the parlor to an alley. I was not worried as by this time I had come to experience and believe the Japanese to be an honest people (maybe foolish?). We walked halfway down the alley and he motioned me to put my bars on a ledge of a 12"x12" waist high window that was in the side of the building. There were no signs or lights, just this window. So I did. A female Japanese voice comes from the window, she takes the bars there's a pause, and then 95,000 yen in cash is put on the window ledge. The doorman smiles and motions for me to take it. I do and return to the hotel with a huge smile on my face!!!!! And turned in for the night.

Our flight out was at 2:30 pm that day. We had a late breakfast and then went to Den Den town, which is Osaka's electronics town, similar to Tokyo's Akihabara Electronics district. From what we have read and heard, Den Den town is supposed to be a better bargain. I was in heaven but my wife was bored. After two hours we called it quits and went back to the Hilton Plaza and our favorite Okonomiyaki restaurant.

The two best ways to get to/from Osaka and KIX is by bus or train. Seeing as we had caught the train in, we decided to take the bus back. Tip: take the train. While the bus was about the same time, it was a boring ride and it could be a disaster if there is an accident.
The service level of the bellmen showed through again as when we checked out, we had asked the front desk person, which way to the airport bus pickup. Without a word, two bellman put our luggage on a wheelie and wheeled it the roughly 1 ½ blocks to the bus pickup area. This was with 90 degrees F and 80% humidity, with the bellman wearing suits. They smiled the whole way, we were very grateful.

Caught an uneventful flight to LA and then onto ORD, back home. Domo Arigatoo Japan!!! We will get back at some point.


[This message has been edited by Sweet Willie (edited 01-17-2002).]

monahos

Thanks for your enjoyable and accurate Japan trip report, which you obviously spent much time 'getting right'.

You caught some aspects of Japan which escape the casual visitor, and can potentially dot a trip with delightful yet subdued surprises. Hope you will have the time and opportunity to discover even more in the future!

Some of my favorites are, in no particular order, the slow but scenic and truly luxurious trains rides from Hakata to Nagasaki and from Aomori to Sapporo, riding a bicycle through the outer suburbs of Tokyo, rural Shikoku, the overnight ferry ride on the Inland Sea from Kyushu to Kobe, the song of the cicadas on a sultry August day, and eating fresh sashimi in small seaside towns.

dsimon

Really terrific read.

Just one quick question about the RailPass, though: Can you purchase the "voucher" for the RailPass on the web or do you have to go to a local stateside to purchase it?

Thanks.

Sweet Willie

don't know what you mean by "a local stateside".

The voucher must be purchased outside of Japan before your visit. I had my travel agent purchase it (non-web purchase), for less $ than the very large JTB organization.

blairvanhorn

I love this quote; it's so true. Thanks for a great report. I've only been to Tokyo once, but I can't wait to go back and visit other parts of the country as well.

You mention eating at the large department stores in Tokyo. I found this to be the best way to have lunch as almost every neighborhood seems to have a grouping of department stores and usually on the top floor there are several restaurants. The food is always good and reasonably priced and you get to watch the locals have lunch.

The fish market in Tokyo was a highlight for me, as well. We were taking many, many pictures and befriended quite a few vendors.

I enjoyed your story about your guide on Miyajima Island. Our cultural instincts often tell us to beware of strangers offering help - this doesn't seem to be a problem in Japan, ever.

Born, OK. But how did they keep someone from dying there?!

Thanks again for an enjoyable report.

Sweet Willie

I understand your question, but to try and make it so no one died on the island, the old/sick were shipped off the island.

bedelman

Sweet Willie, can you recommend a specific travel agent for the Japan Rail Pass? I'm flying AA to NRT, so I'm apparently not eligible for making the purchase from JAL or ANA directly. And unfortunately none of the other listings on http://www.jreast.co.jp/eastpass/agt...ica/index.html is convenient for me. (None is in Boston, where I am. Though perhaps someone will sell me a pass over the phone? Anyone have experience with this?)

Sweet Willie

Japan Travel Bureau (JTB) is (i believe) the largest travel agent specific to Japan travel. Their website info on the railpass is:
http://www.jtb.co.jp/eng/level_1/07/07_index.html

I simply called my travel agent (non JTB) and asked her to book the rail pass. She then mailed me the voucher to redeem in Japan.

Lap

Can I ask how much are you guys paying for the air tickets between US and Japan?

Two weeks ago, UA is offering $370 return tickets between LAX and NRT (Japan), but yesterday, its $598. Where should I go to look for lower price fare? I am planning for a fun trip to Japan in early March.

Thanks.

Sweet Willie

Of course you can ask, but if we'll tell

Eventhough I am a UA hound, I flew Thai (TG) from LAX-KIX (Osaka) both times or did a stopover on a SIN trip.

Of the two TG flights, one was a C class ticket through a travel auction site for $1100, the other was on TG economy and I paid $425ish.

[This message has been edited by Sweet Willie (edited 01-23-2002).]

trd

You can buy your railpass on line at the JTB (Japan Travel Bureau) site. They were very slow in filling my order -- although I submitted it at least 4-5 weeks ahead of my dates of travel (which they requested on the online form) they still had to FedEx it to me a couple of days before I left -- after I called them. I was VERY disappointed in the exchange rate given, in this day of electronic transfers, I got a rate from them of Y113, when the current rate was Y131. They offered to reissue the pass at Y120, but because they were so late in mailing it to me I could not exchange it -- and a better than 10% overage is outrageous. Even in the hotels in Japan last week they were giving Y130 when the bank rate was Y133! All that having been said, the JR pass is a true bargin -- well worth every penny if you intend on doing even a moderate amount of traveling. My 2 week 1st class (green car) pass cost (at the inflated rate about $550), but one two hour (each way) round trip from Fukuoka to Okayama that I took for a dinner engagement would have cost me over $300. I have not yet figured out this years travel (I just got back today)-- but with a similar pass a couple of years ago I put on over $2200 of travel for the two weeks. While the author of this thread is a Hilton person -- the Hyatt's in Japan are also very first rate (I'm a diamond Hyatt) -- the Park in Tokyo is possibily the best city Hyatt in the world. The train is the way to go. People are generally very helpful. If anyone has specific questions on rail travel I have spent 8 weeks in the past five years "doing" the rails throughout Japan -- I would be happy to attempt to help out. please email me.

Mr. Buster

SQ's website has an LAX-NRT fare listed at $398. They also have a Japan Holiday promotion that Mrs. Buster and I did last year. For $899 per person you get flight LAX-NRT, 5 nights at the Tokyo Hilton, airport transfers and a half day Tokyo tour.

You can split up the nights at the Hilton. E.g, we spent four nights in Tokyo, then took the Shinkansen to Osaka and Kyoto for a few days, then returned to Tokyo for one last night before the return to LAX.

Rooms at the Hilton start at just under $200 a night, so if you have two people, may be a slightly better deal than going the non-package route.

The good deals on this route on SQ stem from the fact that this is an LAX-NRT-SIN flight, and the LAX-NRT part of it rarely fills up.

dhammer53

Sweet Willie,

After reading this report, I'm calling United to book the trip.

Dan

obscure2k

When planning your trip to Japan, please take the time to read "Memoirs of a Geisha" by Arthur Golden.

Sweet Willie

Some tips on eating near the Tsujiki Fish Market in Tokyo were posted on the Flyertalk Dining Forum:

http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdi...ML/000006.html