graraps

I'm thinking of spending some miles to go to Africa, as 1) it's very different to anywhere else and 2) the per-mile cost of buying a ticket to there is extremely high thus making redemptions a relative bargain (if you can find a seat, that is!). Since I'm a Skyteam flyer, I guess I should have a lot of options both in terms of getting there from Europe (with AF/AZ/KL/KQ) and for connections/intra-Africa itins (with KQ, of course).
I have very little knowledge of the specific countries (in a recent thread on the BA forum, I thought LUN was Luanda!)- I guess I know all the names and I could roughly point to most of them on a map, but that's about it.

Since it's going to be my first time on African soil, I'd prefer something relatively tame. Ideally something like a fair-sized capital/major city with a bit of nightlife and perhaps not far from a natural park/waterfalls/other "nature"-type attraction (but probably not chasing leopards in a Land Rover).
Safety/security is key- I want to be able to roam around without armed guards. If that's impossible to do on foot, I would consider renting a car or 4x4 if there aren't too many armed checkpoints around! Definitely not into the gated all-inclusive 5-star resort, tho!
I'm a reasonably well-travelled person (pretty much all of Europe plus Venezuela, UAE, HKG and a couple of days in India) and generally pretty aware of my surroundings. I have a basic grasp of French and speak good Spanish so I can get by in Portuguese if need be. I'm white (Mediterranean white- not Irish white), male in my mid-twenties and likely to go either alone or with a friend of similar demographics.
Not really interested in ZA, but willing to investigate any other place.
IS THERE ANYTHING?
Thanks in advance.

kahuna613

I studied abroad in Dakar, Senegal and can offer some advice on Dakar if youre interested. Senegal is extremely arid and does not have a ton of wildlife but there are I believe three national parks. In any event, Dakar is a great introduction to urban Africa and is kind of wild and crazy in that regard. It has some nightlife. You can also make your way up to St. Louis, which is the former colonial capital of Senegal and all of French West Africa, from Dakar. It's kind of crumbling but has some interesting colonial architecture and a jazz festival each winter. Let me know if you are interested in other ideas. The southern part of Senegal is more tropical and bordering on rain forest like. You can also visit (English speaking) the Gambia on your way south if going by car.

graraps

Sounds good! As I am totally clueless about Africa, I have loads of questions, though!!
Is it safe from crime (I don't mind pickpockets in a central bus station, but I wouldn't like to go to a place where I'm likely to get assaulted!)? Are there any good beaches near the city? What's hygiene like (food, water etc)? Outside of DKR, are the roads in a reasonable state or is it dirt tracks all around? Will everyone be able to give me directions in French, or do a lot of people speak only tribal languages?

AndrewC

Try Nairobi. It's relatively safe, very interesting and you can head off to Mombassa on the coast or to one of the wildlife reserves to see some of the wildlife.

I spend a lot of time in West Africa. It's great in so many ways, but I wouldn't go for the scenery..,

My other suggestion would be Namibia

aly

well, having worked and lived in many of the West African countries (mali, burkina faso, cameroon, senegal, etc) i would highly recommend bamako, mali for its security, ample abailability of hotels and inns, relatively inexpensive cost of living and potential for tourism ie sahara dessert, gao, timbuctu, etc...

let me know if u need more info,

enjoy!

graraps

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!!
Please elaborate as much as you can, as information about these places is scarce....The travel wikis are only a few hundred words and other information is fragmented/lost among ads for irrelevant products, so there's very little I can find by myself...

kahuna613

I actually edited the Wikitravel article on Senegal but youre right its not a lot of information. I might recommend going to a bookstore or library and just sitting and reading through some travel guides. It is kind of hard to sort out on the internet but using google.fr instead of google.com will certainly make finding information on the French speaking countries easier.

I would second the previous post about West Africa not quite having the same level of beautiful wilderness and wildlife but that that doesn't necessarily make it a less interesting place to spend time.

Dakar itself has several major French hotel chains in the downtown area (extremely expensive and sterilized of anything African) and there are some independent places smattered throughout the city.

www.ausenegal.com is indispensable as is http://www.senegalaisement.com

Dakar has Goree Island, a historical site related to the slave trade, several busy and wild markets, many nightclubs and bars including Ciossane (spelling?) the club owned by the famous Senegal singer Youssou Ndour, delicious local and foreign cuisine restaurants, and lots of interesting neighborhoods to just walk around.

You can also take a new modern ferry to the south of Senegal (Ziguinchor and Cap Skirring) which has some nice beaches and is much less arid than Dakar and north. That allows you to bypass Gambia and the necessity of a visa (or bribe ugh).

Regarding safety, Dakar has probably more than its full share of pickpockets but I never encountered any sort of violence or violent crimes, especially towards visitors. You may have a little herd of children chasing you asking you for a cadeau from time to time but people are genuinely friendly, esp if you try some Wolof out with them. I think the comments about Mali are true also, I didnt get a chance to visit Mali but its sounds very peaceable and relaxed (unfortunately maybe because there is no work for anyone and its extremely hot). There is actually a train from Dakar to Bamako but according to a friend "it was the worst experience of my life and half the train got malaria."

There are daily flights from JFK, Washington Dulles, and Atlanta to Dakar from the American side and flights from most of the European capitals. You can also access a number of other African capitals as Dakar's service to the rest of West and even South Africa has been expanding in the past few years. Air Senegal is majority owned by Royal Air Maroc and is completely up to Western standards (their website needs a tad more work but eh). Their network in the subcontinent has really grown. You also have Kenya Airways serving Dakar to Nairobi via Bamako but I recall recently seeing a press release that the stopover city will change to either Abidjan or Accra...I may be mistaken. Check the wikis for the most up to date listing of flights.

I would recommend combining a visit to Senegal with another nearby country. I can definitely recommend Cape Verde as I spent Spring Break there in March 2006 and had a fantastic time. There is tons of hiking; windsurfing; cultural events; beaches etc to enjoy depending where you are. We saw almost no other tourists; each island is unique. There are multiple flights a day between Dakar and Praia, the capital of Cape Verde. TACV offers an air pass for within the archipelago if you fly to the islands from Europe or Africa on their flights.

Last, one of the nice things about Senegal is that it is practically the only country in West Africa that does not require a visa, at least for US citizens. Cape Verde, Mali, Gambia, Mauritania and Guinea Bissau (all of Senegals neighbors) do require visas but they all have embassies in Dakar where one can obtain a visa.

Overall, I think Senegal is a great introduction for a first timer to West Africa. I can't speak for East or South Africa however.

kahuna613

double post

kahuna613

I just tried to clean up the wikis on the Dakar Airport and on the Dakar wiktravel page. If anyone bothers to check, feel free to edit. The pictures on the Dakar page are from me.

bradfordm

I know you mentioned little interest in ZA, but I would sure consider Cape Town. Based on your age you'd fit right in on Long Street...great nightlife, trendy, you name it. And since you're a SkyTeam flyer you can use Delta starting next June (pending government approval). Until then it's a very cheap flight from Jo'Burg with many flights that work with the existing Delta flights 34/35. Your other option is KLM through Amsterdam.

IMHO the city is safe, though just like New Orleans, don't stray off Long Street, just as you would not stray far off Bourbon Street at night (no offense to anyone from New Orleans). Walked many many times from the V&A to Sea Point/Green Point without issue - at night. Like anywhere, just be vigilant.

Contact Andrew at 18 on Crox (www.18oncrox.com). Pure luxury with the greatest Malawi butler (Amstone) for about $100 per night. Andrew will set up your entire stay.

My first trip there was life-changing....but I think any trip to sub-saharan Africa will be that way. Can anyone else second that?

Great to hear you're considering Africa -- everyone should go....and if you're reading this and have not been.....what's the hold up?

graraps

I obviously want to explore either on foot or by car. Being confined to one street, no matter how good it may be, is not my idea of "exploring"! I have heard a lot of horror stories about ZA and Nigeria and can't see myself going to either anytime soon!
Incidentally, I am every bit as familiar with Bourbon Street in New Orleans as I am with Long Street in CPT.

While I might be able to use DL, I see no reason for doing so, since I can fly to either CDG or AMS in 90 mins or less and catch any number of KL, AF or KQ African flights from there! I doubt a detour via JFK would be very practical, and I'd rather avoid the US formalities that may well include a requirement to obtain a transit visa!

707Flyer

Safest and nicest place is Cape Town, but stay away from the areas between the airport and downtown/beaches.

gwc67

I am based in Senegal and South Africa part of the year (I have an office in each country) and travel throughout West, Central and Southern Africa.

My top 3 suggestions for a first-timer are, in decreasing order of preference:

• Ghana - Stable country politically; English-speaking; relative low cost of living; several great destinations (Kumasi, Cape Coast, Elmina castles, etc.) - direct DL flight from JFK
• Senegal - Already covered by other posters; extremely safe compared to all the countries I have traveled to; feel free to PM if you need details or information, but note that it is relatively expensive nowadays as the CFA franc is pegged to the Euro - direct DL flight from ATL
• South Africa - Don't rule it out! It is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever visited, and I do enjoy the incredible diversity of cultures and climates from the Limpopo (Northeast) to the Western Cape province. - DL flight from ATL (with 1-hr stopover in DKR)

I would rank Mali fourth. I don't know East Africa as well but I understand that Kenya is a good alternative, although probably less safe than Senegal and Ghana or Mali.

As to flying to these destinations, I actually DO NOT like flying Delta. It is such an inferior product on these routes compared to AF or SA. I prefer to go through CDG (early AF flight), take the RER in town for an early lunch to catch up with friends, and then head back to the airport to catch the flight to either DKR (leaves at 4pm) or JNB (leaves at 11pm)

graraps

First of all, I need to clarify that I don't intend to fly transatlantic to Africa when just crossing the Mediterranean will do.
But some great suggestions there

I did have Ghana in mind...Is it still safe or has lawlessness from CIV spread across?? Please tell me more about the country!


Nowt wrong with the Euro! From what I've seen on ausenegal, hotel prices seem fine at non-chain properties and, as I won't be spending money for the tickets, money is not a big concern for this trip anyway.

Well, the consensus then seems to be that the most logical thing to do is focus on West Africa. Let's say I want to stay 20 days, what would you say
about an itin like:

Day 1: Europe-DKR
Day 2, 3, 4, 5: Staying in DKR, exploring surrounding areas
Day 6, 7: BKO
Day 8, 9: Rural Mali and Timbouktou
Day 10: BKO
Day 11, 12: Rural Ghana attractions
Day 13, 14, 15: ACC and surrounding areas
Day 16 : ACC-NBO-MBA
Day 17, 18: chilling out around MBA
Day 19: NBO
Day 20: NBO-Europe

Is it too much to do in too little time, am I likely to have fatigue/diarrhea issues by day 6 or does it sound alright to you?
As for intra-Africa flights, we already have a recommendation for Air Senegal for the DKR-BKO leg. What about the BKO-TOM? Is it drivable?
It appears there are no BKO-ACC flights...are you aware of any? Maybe I should reverse the itin and fly AF to BKO then go DKR then ACC- or even ACC-DKR-BKO...

gwc67

1. If you are coming from the Euro zone, then you will be doing well in West Africa. And you will not need to battle jet lag. Make sure to have your yellow fever shot. And do load up on any type of effective anti-diarrheal medicine.

2. I am not sure what you mean by lawlessness in Ghana. It has to be one of the most stable countries in the region. Can you explain where you obtained this information?

3. That's a pretty ambitious schedule you have, but I did take a group of 25 students to 4 countries (Senegal, Gambia, Ghana and Zimbabwe) in 3 weeks during my university days, so I think your itinerary is doable especially if you are traveling by yourself or with a friend with 'similar demographics'. I am assuming that you are both in good physical condition. Make sure to allow yourself some downtime (1/2 day) before leaving for a new destination.

4. While there are no BKO-ACC direct flights that I know of, Abidjan (ABJ) is a hub for the region. Air Ivoire (VU) and Ethiopian Airlines (ET) fly between BKO and ABJ. VU and EK (yes, EK!) fly between ABJ and ACC. One of the best kept secrets is that EK offers an amazingly short flight between ABJ and ACC. Great service for a 45-minute flight. But make sure to check on which days these flights take place as they are not daily flights.

5. KQ also flies between DKR and BKO, by the way. But I am sure you know that.

6. With respect to Ghana, what questions do you have specifically ? And when do you plan on taking this trip anyway?