Turkmenistan Airlines + Ashgabat Transit Experience
Jun 13, 2024, 7:36 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: DPS
Programs: AS G100K, UA Silver
Posts: 1,796
Turkmenistan Airlines + Ashgabat Transit Experience
[I've traveled a bit, but never wrote a trip report before. Let's change that]
Turkmenistan Airlines
I’ve been wanting to visit Turkmenistan for a while. For those who don’t know, it’s one of the least visited countries in the world, and getting a visa to visit independently is incredibly difficult. Tourist visas are only issued with a guided tour, so the only real option for independent travel is a transit visa, which is issued for 3-7 days only. If you’re able to force a layover of 2+ days, the process of obtaining a transit visa is actually quite easy (in the USA)
Sadly, the trip I had booked for my transit visa got cancelled due to Covid. So when this fare popped up for LGW-ASB-KUL, and I needed to get back home to Indonesia, flying Turkmenistan Airlines seemed perfect for the odd route, the ability to “see” some of Turkmenistan, and the price was right.
I had no idea what to expect going into this trip, since there aren’t very many reviews of Turkmenistan Airlines, and the flight schedule is quite erratic to put it mildly.
Booking
I booked this flight directly on Turkmenistan Airline’s Turkish website, which allows for international credit cards to be used, and was surprisingly easy to book. Keep in mind that once you book, there is no ability to view your reservation, select seats, or anything. Just hope the schedule doesn’t change.
The flight cost about $330 from London to Ashgabat to Kuala Lumpur which afforded a 3 hour layover in Ashgabat. The flights were scheduled to be on 777’s, which as you’ll see below, can vary greatly in experience. Business class for this route was $1,100 which honestly isn’t that bad. I imagine if/when Turkmenistan Airlines appears on Google Flights, bookings will skyrocket due to the competitive price for Asian destinations from Europe.
Check-in
Turkmenistan Airlines flies 2x weekly to Gatwick in London. There is very minimal signage at the airport, and there are 2 staff that are dedicated to check-in, and working the gate. These ladies were lovely, and give me quite a bit of information on Turkmenistan’s system they have to use (hint: they hate it).
There is no sign or monitor showing where to check-in for Turkmenistan Airlines. Asking around and noticing other confused travelers pointed me to the 2 unmarked check-in ladies. Check-in was quick, my carry-on could have been 30kg and they wouldn’t have cared. Was informed that for the LGW-ASB flight the load was 25 passengers and that seems to be normal for the route. Seats were assigned for everyone in rows 10-12 only, for weight and balance, which made for a very strange look on the empty 777.
Airport
Gatwick and its lounges are a dump.
Boarding
Once the gate posted, I was the first to be scanned into the gate by the same two ladies who handled check-in. Slowly all 25 pax started to show up. Around 90% of the passengers were headed to SGN and booked this flight from a Facebook ad (!!). The Turkmenistan Airlines station manager was wondering around, but he wasn’t too friendly when I tried to strike up a conversation. Eventually the gate agents gave us all a thumbs up, and we just walked aboard the aircraft. I was so excited to finally step onboard the 777-200LR!!
Aircraft
Turkmenistan Airlines operates a bit of an odd fleet. (“Odd” is theme for this trip)
There are 4 777-200LRs, in which TWO are dedicated for VIP use. An additional 2 777-300ER have recently been leased from Cathay Pacific. There’s also a handful of 737’s that get swapped in at an alarming rate. If your flight is scheduled <6 hours, there’s quite a few substitutions from 777 -> 737.
The trip from LGW was on one of the elusive 777-200LR aircraft. Upon boarding, I was surprised at how well the aircraft looked taken care of. Sadly, the portraits of the president are no longer hanging on the bulkhead wall. The wallpaper is in a cute Turkmenistan Airlines motif though.
There are seatback TVs at every seat, but they are not loaded with any content, and do not work other than displaying the “Turkmenistan Airlines” logo. Seats are arranged in a 3-3-3 layout, and legroom is honestly the best I’ve ever seen in economy, probably at least 36”. Since our flight was very lightly loaded, all 25 passengers were stuck sharing rows 10-12 for takeoff. There was one deadheading pilot in business class.
Flight attendants reminded us not to take photos (which I promptly continued to do), and mostly were hands-off during the boarding process. While rules appeared to be strict, enforcement was another matter. Pax were allowed to continue phone calls up until takeoff, and seats were reclined without issue. Another fun fact: the flight attendants don’t appear to know that the bins on the 777 need to latch fully to close. Nearly 3 of them popped open during our takeoff roll, as well as the front closet.
Lavatories were standard 777, with soap that looks like it came from someone’s home. Tissues and toilet paper were in short supply (ie. when it ran out, it was gone)
Flight to Ashgabat
The flight itself was pretty normal. Seatbelt sign was turned off once we reached cruising altitude. Everyone then dispersed throughout the cabin for an empty row. I chose the bulkhead and legroom was infinite. Shortly after the seatbelt sign was turned off, the crew came around with meals. I’ve never seen such a full spread for economy class before. There was *a lot* of food. It was all quite tasty. Beverages were offered and I was just given the bottle of coke, rather than any sort of glass.
Turkmenistan Airlines is a dry airline. However, if you have duty free, the crew does not care if you indulge. The crew really doesn’t care in general. It’s not that they’re actively unfriendly, but don’t expect any smiles or amazing service. For most of the flight they just disappeared to the empty section of the plane.
Another oddity of Turkmenistan Airlines is the seatbelt sign. When it comes on, a long announcement is played that reminds you to put your seat upright, tray tables up, and to prepare for landing. Which is weird in the middle of the flight. What’s more weird is the flight attendants try to enforce it? When the seatbelt sign came on, all tray tables had to be put away, and seatbacks raised. I was allowed to continue using my laptop on my lap, but ok…
There is OnAir Wifi which has a working portal branded for Turkmenistan Airlines (!), but of course Wifi doesn’t work.
Overall, a pretty uneventful flight. No updates from the cockpit either.
Transit Experience
If you know anything about Turkmenistan, this is where things really shine. The transit in Ashgabat is just absolutely insane. Upon landing at what is probably the world’s most flashy airport, you’re immediately greeted by everything which is now green. Escalator handrails? Green. Carpet? Green.
It was clear that when we landed, we were the first of a couple flights that morning (and that’s it, this isn’t a bustling hub). Endless corridors of this massive airport without another human in sight. Eventually I reached the end, where some staff kept pressing me to do a Covid swab. How is that still a thing? I walked past them and into the transit lane. Eventually an officer yelled for me to stop, and reminded me to just follow the signs on the ground that said “Transit”. That’s exactly what I was doing dude…
Anyways, you make your way through an unstaffed transit security checkpoint. Seriously, no one was there, and I walked right through and into the departures hall, setting off the metal detector with my suitcase.
The departure hall has no Wifi. Actually, it really doesn’t have anything. Ashgabat airport is like a worse version of Pyongyang. At least Pyongyang isn’t trying to pretend it’s an international hub. There are signs for ATMs, but they don’t exist. Shops don’t accept international credit cards. Cash is king, and if you have USD or EUR you will be given change in Manat. Prices are *cheap*. Bottles of duty free liquor are $2-3 USD.
Throughout the airport there are uniformed security guards stationed everywhere. I got to know them quite well due to my unsanctioned “walking”. Apparently you’re supposed to go directly to your gate and wait there. Do not explore the airport. Do not try to go past the first 3 gates. It’s “closed” beyond there, as they told me multiple times - even though there are signs for an Airport hotel, cafeteria, etc further down the gate area. It’s incredibly confusing to them when you’re walking the “wrong way” back from the gates. The staff speaks little-to-no English and I was asked no less than 10 times from the guards “Give me money. You give me money”
There’s nothing stopping you from taking pictures, other than the underpaid guards who will try to hassle you but ultimately are powerless.
There’s no airside smoking room. The bathrooms double as a smoking room. There are no amenities such as soap or toilet paper. The entire airport is shiny and new, but is in a terrible state of cleanliness. Airport TVs show Windows blue-screen errors. The departure point reminds you that there are only 3 flights that day (to Delhi, Ho Chi Minh City, and Kuala Lumpur).
Eventually I accepted my fate and waited by my gate for Kuala Lumpur. Eventually boarding was called, everyone made their way onto the plane. Considering Turkmenistan’s love for bureaucracy, there was no passport check at the gate, and just a glance of the boarding pass was enough to get on.
Flight to Kuala Lumpur
This flight was operated by an ex-Cathay 777-300ER. Spoiler alert: it sucks.
The flight was about half full, and the 3-4-3 and tight pitch was a far cry from the luxurious 777-200LR I had on an earlier flight. The entertainment screen was altered to just display two options: a light and a call button. This will be your entertainment for the next 7 hours.
Unlike the previous flight from London which was mostly students returning home to Asia, this flight to Kuala Lumpur was mostly Turkmenistan citizens. You could tell a lot of them were flying for the first time. Boarding complete, and I moved to empty row in the back of the aircraft. By the way, on 777 flights, the entire back coach section is closed off when the loads are light, so even if you move, the back section is off limits.
This was a pretty standard flight after taking off from Ashgabat, and I promptly fell asleep. I skipped the meal, and flight attendants did come through the aisle quite often for beverages. Turbulence over the Bay of Bengal was pretty active, although the seatbelt sign wasn’t enforced much. There were times that having the cart in the aisle made me nervous.
Landing in KUL was uneventful. The plane was full of clappers and those who stood up immediately after we landed. The crew didn’t stop them though. At least everyone was ready to go when we arrived at the gate.
Overall Thoughts
777-200LR > 777-300ER
Transit experience is surreal
Turkmenistan Airlines could actually be competitive if it were easier to buy a ticket
Some photos:
The only sign at Gatwick that Turkmenistan Airlines actually exists
Parked at the gate in Gatwick
The entire load for today's flight
Sadly no more portraits on the bulkhead
Unlimited legroom in the bulkhead row
Legroom is amazing
777-200LR wing
Bathroom amenities
Economy class meal
Cabin midflight LGW-ASB
Welcome to Ashgabat!
Gate Area
Gate Area
Bring cash!
The extent of in-flight entertainment
777-300ER legroom. A bit tigher
The airport does have an interesting shape
777-300ER
Turkmenistan Airlines
I’ve been wanting to visit Turkmenistan for a while. For those who don’t know, it’s one of the least visited countries in the world, and getting a visa to visit independently is incredibly difficult. Tourist visas are only issued with a guided tour, so the only real option for independent travel is a transit visa, which is issued for 3-7 days only. If you’re able to force a layover of 2+ days, the process of obtaining a transit visa is actually quite easy (in the USA)
Sadly, the trip I had booked for my transit visa got cancelled due to Covid. So when this fare popped up for LGW-ASB-KUL, and I needed to get back home to Indonesia, flying Turkmenistan Airlines seemed perfect for the odd route, the ability to “see” some of Turkmenistan, and the price was right.
I had no idea what to expect going into this trip, since there aren’t very many reviews of Turkmenistan Airlines, and the flight schedule is quite erratic to put it mildly.
Booking
I booked this flight directly on Turkmenistan Airline’s Turkish website, which allows for international credit cards to be used, and was surprisingly easy to book. Keep in mind that once you book, there is no ability to view your reservation, select seats, or anything. Just hope the schedule doesn’t change.
The flight cost about $330 from London to Ashgabat to Kuala Lumpur which afforded a 3 hour layover in Ashgabat. The flights were scheduled to be on 777’s, which as you’ll see below, can vary greatly in experience. Business class for this route was $1,100 which honestly isn’t that bad. I imagine if/when Turkmenistan Airlines appears on Google Flights, bookings will skyrocket due to the competitive price for Asian destinations from Europe.
Check-in
Turkmenistan Airlines flies 2x weekly to Gatwick in London. There is very minimal signage at the airport, and there are 2 staff that are dedicated to check-in, and working the gate. These ladies were lovely, and give me quite a bit of information on Turkmenistan’s system they have to use (hint: they hate it).
There is no sign or monitor showing where to check-in for Turkmenistan Airlines. Asking around and noticing other confused travelers pointed me to the 2 unmarked check-in ladies. Check-in was quick, my carry-on could have been 30kg and they wouldn’t have cared. Was informed that for the LGW-ASB flight the load was 25 passengers and that seems to be normal for the route. Seats were assigned for everyone in rows 10-12 only, for weight and balance, which made for a very strange look on the empty 777.
Airport
Gatwick and its lounges are a dump.
Boarding
Once the gate posted, I was the first to be scanned into the gate by the same two ladies who handled check-in. Slowly all 25 pax started to show up. Around 90% of the passengers were headed to SGN and booked this flight from a Facebook ad (!!). The Turkmenistan Airlines station manager was wondering around, but he wasn’t too friendly when I tried to strike up a conversation. Eventually the gate agents gave us all a thumbs up, and we just walked aboard the aircraft. I was so excited to finally step onboard the 777-200LR!!
Aircraft
Turkmenistan Airlines operates a bit of an odd fleet. (“Odd” is theme for this trip)
There are 4 777-200LRs, in which TWO are dedicated for VIP use. An additional 2 777-300ER have recently been leased from Cathay Pacific. There’s also a handful of 737’s that get swapped in at an alarming rate. If your flight is scheduled <6 hours, there’s quite a few substitutions from 777 -> 737.
The trip from LGW was on one of the elusive 777-200LR aircraft. Upon boarding, I was surprised at how well the aircraft looked taken care of. Sadly, the portraits of the president are no longer hanging on the bulkhead wall. The wallpaper is in a cute Turkmenistan Airlines motif though.
There are seatback TVs at every seat, but they are not loaded with any content, and do not work other than displaying the “Turkmenistan Airlines” logo. Seats are arranged in a 3-3-3 layout, and legroom is honestly the best I’ve ever seen in economy, probably at least 36”. Since our flight was very lightly loaded, all 25 passengers were stuck sharing rows 10-12 for takeoff. There was one deadheading pilot in business class.
Flight attendants reminded us not to take photos (which I promptly continued to do), and mostly were hands-off during the boarding process. While rules appeared to be strict, enforcement was another matter. Pax were allowed to continue phone calls up until takeoff, and seats were reclined without issue. Another fun fact: the flight attendants don’t appear to know that the bins on the 777 need to latch fully to close. Nearly 3 of them popped open during our takeoff roll, as well as the front closet.
Lavatories were standard 777, with soap that looks like it came from someone’s home. Tissues and toilet paper were in short supply (ie. when it ran out, it was gone)
Flight to Ashgabat
The flight itself was pretty normal. Seatbelt sign was turned off once we reached cruising altitude. Everyone then dispersed throughout the cabin for an empty row. I chose the bulkhead and legroom was infinite. Shortly after the seatbelt sign was turned off, the crew came around with meals. I’ve never seen such a full spread for economy class before. There was *a lot* of food. It was all quite tasty. Beverages were offered and I was just given the bottle of coke, rather than any sort of glass.
Turkmenistan Airlines is a dry airline. However, if you have duty free, the crew does not care if you indulge. The crew really doesn’t care in general. It’s not that they’re actively unfriendly, but don’t expect any smiles or amazing service. For most of the flight they just disappeared to the empty section of the plane.
Another oddity of Turkmenistan Airlines is the seatbelt sign. When it comes on, a long announcement is played that reminds you to put your seat upright, tray tables up, and to prepare for landing. Which is weird in the middle of the flight. What’s more weird is the flight attendants try to enforce it? When the seatbelt sign came on, all tray tables had to be put away, and seatbacks raised. I was allowed to continue using my laptop on my lap, but ok…
There is OnAir Wifi which has a working portal branded for Turkmenistan Airlines (!), but of course Wifi doesn’t work.
Overall, a pretty uneventful flight. No updates from the cockpit either.
Transit Experience
If you know anything about Turkmenistan, this is where things really shine. The transit in Ashgabat is just absolutely insane. Upon landing at what is probably the world’s most flashy airport, you’re immediately greeted by everything which is now green. Escalator handrails? Green. Carpet? Green.
It was clear that when we landed, we were the first of a couple flights that morning (and that’s it, this isn’t a bustling hub). Endless corridors of this massive airport without another human in sight. Eventually I reached the end, where some staff kept pressing me to do a Covid swab. How is that still a thing? I walked past them and into the transit lane. Eventually an officer yelled for me to stop, and reminded me to just follow the signs on the ground that said “Transit”. That’s exactly what I was doing dude…
Anyways, you make your way through an unstaffed transit security checkpoint. Seriously, no one was there, and I walked right through and into the departures hall, setting off the metal detector with my suitcase.
The departure hall has no Wifi. Actually, it really doesn’t have anything. Ashgabat airport is like a worse version of Pyongyang. At least Pyongyang isn’t trying to pretend it’s an international hub. There are signs for ATMs, but they don’t exist. Shops don’t accept international credit cards. Cash is king, and if you have USD or EUR you will be given change in Manat. Prices are *cheap*. Bottles of duty free liquor are $2-3 USD.
Throughout the airport there are uniformed security guards stationed everywhere. I got to know them quite well due to my unsanctioned “walking”. Apparently you’re supposed to go directly to your gate and wait there. Do not explore the airport. Do not try to go past the first 3 gates. It’s “closed” beyond there, as they told me multiple times - even though there are signs for an Airport hotel, cafeteria, etc further down the gate area. It’s incredibly confusing to them when you’re walking the “wrong way” back from the gates. The staff speaks little-to-no English and I was asked no less than 10 times from the guards “Give me money. You give me money”
There’s nothing stopping you from taking pictures, other than the underpaid guards who will try to hassle you but ultimately are powerless.
There’s no airside smoking room. The bathrooms double as a smoking room. There are no amenities such as soap or toilet paper. The entire airport is shiny and new, but is in a terrible state of cleanliness. Airport TVs show Windows blue-screen errors. The departure point reminds you that there are only 3 flights that day (to Delhi, Ho Chi Minh City, and Kuala Lumpur).
Eventually I accepted my fate and waited by my gate for Kuala Lumpur. Eventually boarding was called, everyone made their way onto the plane. Considering Turkmenistan’s love for bureaucracy, there was no passport check at the gate, and just a glance of the boarding pass was enough to get on.
Flight to Kuala Lumpur
This flight was operated by an ex-Cathay 777-300ER. Spoiler alert: it sucks.
The flight was about half full, and the 3-4-3 and tight pitch was a far cry from the luxurious 777-200LR I had on an earlier flight. The entertainment screen was altered to just display two options: a light and a call button. This will be your entertainment for the next 7 hours.
Unlike the previous flight from London which was mostly students returning home to Asia, this flight to Kuala Lumpur was mostly Turkmenistan citizens. You could tell a lot of them were flying for the first time. Boarding complete, and I moved to empty row in the back of the aircraft. By the way, on 777 flights, the entire back coach section is closed off when the loads are light, so even if you move, the back section is off limits.
This was a pretty standard flight after taking off from Ashgabat, and I promptly fell asleep. I skipped the meal, and flight attendants did come through the aisle quite often for beverages. Turbulence over the Bay of Bengal was pretty active, although the seatbelt sign wasn’t enforced much. There were times that having the cart in the aisle made me nervous.
Landing in KUL was uneventful. The plane was full of clappers and those who stood up immediately after we landed. The crew didn’t stop them though. At least everyone was ready to go when we arrived at the gate.
Overall Thoughts
777-200LR > 777-300ER
Transit experience is surreal
Turkmenistan Airlines could actually be competitive if it were easier to buy a ticket
Some photos:
The only sign at Gatwick that Turkmenistan Airlines actually exists
Parked at the gate in Gatwick
The entire load for today's flight
Sadly no more portraits on the bulkhead
Unlimited legroom in the bulkhead row
Legroom is amazing
777-200LR wing
Bathroom amenities
Economy class meal
Cabin midflight LGW-ASB
Welcome to Ashgabat!
Gate Area
Gate Area
Bring cash!
The extent of in-flight entertainment
777-300ER legroom. A bit tigher
The airport does have an interesting shape
777-300ER
Jun 13, 2024, 7:47 pm
#2
Moderator: Trip Reports
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Programs: UA GS-2MM, Marriott Ambassador
Posts: 3,807
Well done on your first TR. Fascinating account of Turkmenistan Airlines. Has made me even now more determined to never to set foot on one of their birds...
Jun 14, 2024, 6:44 am
#6
Formerly known as tireman77
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,122
Thanks! Love it!
And I for one would appriciate more TRs about obscure and infrequently flown airlines and destinations.
I've seen enough SQ/BA/EK F Blah Blah Blah TRs to last me a lifetime. Those are so 2018...
And I for one would appriciate more TRs about obscure and infrequently flown airlines and destinations.
I've seen enough SQ/BA/EK F Blah Blah Blah TRs to last me a lifetime. Those are so 2018...
Jun 14, 2024, 8:07 am
#7
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mostly EU & (SE)Asia
Programs: Various shiny cards at hotel chains and airlines
Posts: 1,044
Great report! I am considering to try them as well, good to know what to possibly expect. That is also good that they did not enforce that 5kg economy class carry on weight limit, which these days with tech can easily be exceeded.
Jun 14, 2024, 8:21 am
#8
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: NCL
Programs: BAEC and Hilton mostly
Posts: 714
Quote:
Originally Posted by pushmyredbutton
Airport
Gatwick and its lounges are a dump.
The BA lounges are OK
Thanks, pushmyredbutton for a TR about an airline and a destination I'm unlikely to visit!
Originally Posted by pushmyredbutton
Airport
Gatwick and its lounges are a dump.
The BA lounges are OK
Thanks, pushmyredbutton for a TR about an airline and a destination I'm unlikely to visit!
Jun 16, 2024, 5:47 pm
#12
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: KUSA
Programs: Whatever AMEX Plat comes with... I buy on price.. Spirit Big Front Seat, want First/buy First
Posts: 1,611
Great report! A friend of mine flew on them a couple years ago. On his 777 flight, there were only 3 or 4 flight attendants (which was disconcerting from a western perspective of minimum crew). They had to stay in the transit hotel and there were three of them in there... basically they were locked in the hotel for the night. They couldn't get off of the floor/hallway where their rooms were located... but they were brought plentiful food and a guard asked if they would like anything from the duty free! They were told they couldn't go in each others rooms (for some reason)... they decided in this overall bizarre experience not to test that so they spent much of the night sitting in the hallway drinking. The next morning an agent and a guard came and walked them from the hotel to the airplane.
Aug 15, 2024, 9:07 am
#15
Ambassador: World of Hyatt
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: UK - the nearest airport is named after a motorway !
Posts: 4,258
Great trip report pushmyredbutton - like others have said, nice to read about something different.
And this. Reminds me a lot of my experience in Nouakchott's new airport, even down to the signs pointing to non-existent things...